Part 2: Cycling Glacier, Banff, Jasper - Day 2.

This was it - Day 2, and the journey along the mythical Going-to-the-Sun Rd, carved out of the very rock by the most manual of techniques over a 12 year period finishing in 1932, and climbing it's way 3840ft to cross the Continental Divide at Logan's Pass. Check out the Wikipedia for more info and links:

Wikipedia Going-to-the-Sun Road Entry

A great factoid is that it is the very road that is featured at the start of the movie 'The Shining'.

Well, climbing it was going to be like a visit to that hell-hotel of the movie! I'd decided prior to the trips not to re-jig the gears on my bike so my lowest set was 39 front and 23 rear. Now I had started to regret it.

Below is a pic of the valley which the rd goes thru before scaling the face of the second mountain in the pic to Logan's Pass (between the two peaks):



We arose early for breakfast at 7:00am - an early rise was necessary as it's a rule that all bicycle traffic be off the road between 11:00am-4:00pm. The early morning briefing emphasised the fact that the road (whilst narrow and having no shoulder, and featuring metal drainage gratings and possible rocks, wet surfaces, debris, massive gaping crevasses and hordes of voracious brown bears) was tough but possible to climb with a huge dose of luck! Actually, the guides were very positive and encouraging, and soon we left Lake McDonald Lodge and started the ride up the gentle slopes toward "The Loop", the switchback where the road ascends back on itself, and the start of the 19.5km 6% gradient final climb in earnest.

The ride up the the initial incline was cold, and with my no-finger gloves my hands soon became frosty. Ditto my toes. Still, with the promise of sunlight ready to appear round the next bend I swept on, altho' never quite catching those elusive rays.

I stopped at the designated point just prior to "The Loop" to a quick cheer from guides at the waiting van (not sure what the hell they were cheering at - that was the easy bit!) At this point is a sign pointing out 'Heaven's Peak', an 8987 ft peak across the valley. Below is a pic of me and the sign (thanks to Amy for snapping it for me), and the peak itself:




Gathering my thoughts, I reflected on the fact that the longest hill I'd ever climbed back home in Perth was probably 1km at 5-6% gradient: not a comforting thought given 19.5km at 6% was coming up. Divesting myself of my backpack (all I was keeping was my camera - I figured if I flatted, then the van would come by eventually) I re-mounted, took a last breath, changed up to my 23 gear at the rear, and was away.

To cut the drama short, the climb was great, fantastic, a true experience. Sure, with the gearing I had, it was a little bit of a grind at a cadence of around 60-65, but the incline was consistent, the road was great, the views were spectacular, and the sense of accomplishment was gratifying. Best of all, I kept going forward! In short, I'd do it over in a flash - no question at all. No one particular thing sold me - it was just the combination of everything that now makes me want to grind it out again.

I recall one incident at about three quarters up - a missile (could it be a bike?) was spearing downhill toward me shouting something unintelligible: as the object passed me it turned out to be Doug at terminal velocity saying something which I interpreted as "yeeee-haaaaawwww". The Doppler Effect generated by his approach and passing turned the oncoming sound into a high-pitched siren which slowly faded to a low-pitched growl as he passed down the hill, flaming scorch marks from his tyres snaking their way down the decline after him. I was reminded of Wile E. Coyote from the roadrunner cartoons, strapped to an oversized 'Acme' brand rocket and sizzling towards his target off screen. Doug had driven the van and trailer around to Logan's Pass from the other side the previous day - oversized vehicles were not allowed on the climb. I wondered out loud to myself what the policy on low-flying missiles was before plodding on.

Arrived at the top at Logan's Pass 19.5km later feeling liberated. In all honesty, I had never felt better mentally, and physically I was great - I really should have gone down for a way and re-done part as some of the group did. If any readers are interested in doing this climb then I urge you to DO IT - it's an experience of a lifetime!

At the peak of the climb, David (a young guy on Tour with his family, a friendly, rock-solid person and great rider who shared with me some wonderful pace-lines around Alberta) took my pic - I hope to get that one off him one day. I hope I look like I felt - exhilarated.

I did end up going down about 800m - on the way up there is an observation area about that distance from the top but I figured I'd get all the pics I wanted from the top at Logan's Pass. Except of course, the Pass is over the crest. So back down it was to take pics - none of which can really do the magnificence justice. Flitting beneath the suspended metal walkway at the ob area was a mountain goat and her kid - couldn't get any pics coz they wouldn't come out! Here's a pic of the view down from where we had come - you can see the Rd carving up the mountain on the right:



Also, the obligatory 'me and sign' pic:



Climbed back up to the van waiting at Logan's Pass and got refreshments with those who had already made it, and talked about the climb, scenery etc with them and those who continued to arrive. Basking in the atmosphere, I then thought about the fun that awaited - a 13.5km downhill to our lunch stop at Sun Point!

Time to blast, and with a little caution initially, I started out on the descent. Finding the roads generally good, and dodgy spots easy to see and avoid, I let the bike and gravity do their thing. Soon it felt like I was flying - passing the tour buses, swooping around bends, hitting mid 70s km/h on the steepest decline: awesome. Going up mountains has its bonuses!

All too soon, the lunchspot turnoff loomed, and it was time to reign it in. Glided into Sun Point up to the waiting van and hung around chatting to Brandon as others arrived. In retrospect, I should've gone back down the Going-to-the-Sun Rd as a few others did - I had the time. But still...

After lunch, it was a 50km jaunt to the night's lodgings, Many Glacier Hotel. Starting off, the road trailed down foothills and onto relatively flat, open, less vegetated terrain. A nice tailwind helped things zip along - rode with Jabe for a nice while (mostly getting towed!) before he turned back to find Julie.

Somewhere on a long stretch of road, an emergency vehicle passed by going back towards Sun Point: I later found out it was an ambulance. Then, at about 1 minute intervals, 4 other vehicles, all ranger cars, went past lights ablaze in the same direction. Must be a fire I thought.

A short while later I came up on Mark and Stuart, two friends doing the trip. Both great value - Stuart a real 'energiser bunny' on the bike, a colourful personality, and with a real joy for the bike and life, and Mark a big, athletic guy with a straightforward and easy-going personality, equally loving his riding, and just the strongest rider I've seen. Tagged along with them with Mark doing the vast majority of the work (he was hard to keep up with even when he was doing the pacing!).

Mark asked me at one stage if I'd seen all the emergency vehicles: I replied yes to which he wondered if it was anything to do with our tour. It never occurred to me and I said I doubted it. Later we found out at the Lodge that another of the group, Jeffrey, David's brother and son of Bill and Bonnie, had had a spill on the downhill section after Logan's Pass, had been knocked out and had been airlifted to hospital as a precautionary measure. All was well - great news - and he re-joined the tour after a few days although his cycling days for this tour were over due to medical orders. I later had a few short chats with Jeffrey and found him to be a really enigmatic and charismatic person: he has that something about him which makes me think he'll do something of importance in his life.

Our little group kept on going and the conditions got a little tougher: more undulations, and a headwind as we slowly turned back towards some foothills and Many Glacier Hotel. Stuart was dropping back a bit, being a slighter guy into a headwind is tough. Also, for the first part of the tour, he persisted in carrying this enormous seatpack which looked like it weighed two tonne! Most likely it had a spare bike in it in case his classic Colnago died! It was big enough. Later on in the tour he ditched the spare bike and just carried a normal load, after which he just steamed.

After a while, Mark started getting away from me - man, he went up hills like they were pimples! He and Jabe were both great climbers on the opposite ends of the scale: Jabe light and lean and soft on the pedals, Mark big and athletic and he just drove over inclines with pure force. After a while, Mark turned around, passed me and went back for Stuart: just an excuse for more miles I think! Those two were great mates. I had a massive case of envy over Mark's bike - it was a beautiful Litespeed (like his riding!).

Continued the into-the-wind grind through the Many Glacier Park entrance and finally arrived at the Hotel after a tough but still fun ride. Checked into the hotel with the promise of a hot shower followed by later drinks and nibbles as a group. Hotel pic here:



The Many Glaciers Hotel is classic lodge-style accommodation, all wood, with rooms in wings constructed around a central building housing the foyer, dining etc. It has a Swiss theme about it - including Swiss flags everywhere, some reference to it in the eateries etc. I believe the Swiss did something to develop the area? Either that or they just liked the flag. Either way, a great place with huge views. Unfortunately, the Many Glaciers Hotel doesn't look over many glaciers - these have shrunk to almost nothing.

After a shower, we all gathered inside a small wing of the hotel and promptly commandeered it for drinks and nibbles. This gathering was meant to be outside in a 'breezeway' but that had inconveniently turned into a 'galeway'. Hint to self - eat first, as one beer latter I was feeling dangerous!

It was then off to the (Swissish?) restaurant, where I was on a table with Stephen, he like me doing the tour by himself. His job involved directing all the TV proceedings in one of the houses of US parliament. After being fascinated by his stories of the workings of the place, all I can say is I admire his staying power: I remember once attending a sitting of the Western Australian State Parliament in the galleries, sitting down and very soon after being told to wake up by a rather peeved parliamentary officer!

So, one nice meal, conversations and goodnights later, it was time for bed. After good-naturedly hassling Jacob about the fact he didn't ride today, and discussing the interesting selling points of the hotel's brochure (it proclaims the rooms don't have insulation or double-glazed windows? - I presume freezing in winter is a bonus for that season's occupants?) I drifted off to sleep after the best and most challenging day of riding in my life. And this only Day 2!

Coming up - Day 3: wherein we see bears in them thar hills, the Canadians recklessly let me into their country, a hill pops up out of nowhere and pops some eyes, a revenge-minded Alisa sends me up a vicious climb to a lake I can't remember, and we stay in a Lodge named after the Prince of Wales (one of the dead ones, not the living one whose mum won't let him be King).